Restaurant Review: The Colony Grill Room, The Beaumont Hotel, London

Some of my early readers will also remember that I was one of the first people to discover what a good place The Wolseley was for breakfast when it first opened.  So of course, I have followed them as they have risen to higher and higher heights of hospitality and dining experiences. 

As is evident from all my columns, I am a particular fan of desserts, and therefore the Delaunay is near the top of my list for its lovely Salzburg soufflé.  So when The Colony Grill Room opened in the new Beaumont Hotel (also owned by Corbin and King) , I was quick to book an early Sunday evening. 

I know from past experience that almost all good restaurants in London these days get very noisy, so because I actually like to talk to my dining companion (to discuss the food as much as anything else), I also try to go early.

The Colony is a very vintage restaurant.  For New Yorkers like me, it is reminiscent of the 21 Club, or other fashionable New York steakhouses, or even the grill room of an exclusive country club.  The decor is clearly reminiscent of the art deco era, with the walls of the cocktail bar lined with a fabulous collection of photographs of well-dressed people from the 20’s and 30’s.  I didn’t recognise any of them, but they all looked important, or at least affluent, and made the American-style bar very warm, inviting and fun. 

But enough of the preamble – on to the food. 

My overwhelming feeling about this restaurant was that I had grown up here.  The dark booths with white table cloths were not too close together to have a private conversation, and the menu was very familiar. 

I was dining with William Norris, the well-known London caterer who had brilliantly cooked for the Royal Academy Ball, as well as our Benjamin West Dinner, and we were celebrating .  I chose New York shrimp cocktail, and he chose dressed Weymouth crab. 

Both were as they should be – fresh seafood, skilfully prepared – but the shrimp cocktail was clearly the winner.  it was large whole shrimps, shelled and served with American, as opposed to British, cocktail sauce (which, for those who don’t know, American cocktail sauce is basically spicy tomato ketchup with horseradish).  I am not a big fan of the British Marie-Rose sauce that is usually served with shrimp, because all that mayonnaise makes it much too fattening.  Where I grew up that kind of sauce used to be called Russian Dressing and was served with the ever-present iceberg lettuce.

In any case, enough of this reminiscing, and on to the mains – which also featured American classics – such as the familiar wedge of iceberg lettuce with blue cheese, and mac and cheese, and a Pastrami Reuben sandwich.  I chose the old-fashioned style cheeseburger – a good one is still hard to get in London despite the plethora of hamburger joints that have sprung up recently everywhere.  This one was perfect – thick and juicy with just the right cheddar cheese on top, and lots of ketchup and French fries.  What a ride down memory lane!

William had the veal chop – which, too, is almost always on the menus in New York restaurants, but is rarely seen here.  It was also delicious, and the portion was not too big to be intimidating.  We both liked the tomato and onion salad as a side dish, because the tomatoes were both chopped and peeled and served in a delicious Italian dressing.

So far we were having a very good time, with very nice old-fashioned food -  but by far the best was yet to come – dessert.  Although the carrot cake and red velvet cake looked lovely, we passed them by in favour of bananas foster – which are bananas heated in caramel sauce with ice cream.  Even better, however, was the fabulous old-fashioned ice ream sundae.  Yum! 

It was definitely the sundae that was the most memorable.  Each table was given a small piece of paper listing the flavours, toppings and sauces that were on offer, so that you could construct your own perfect ice cream sundae.  

I chose vanilla (three scoops, can you believe), to be topped with marshmallow and crushed meringue, with both butterscotch and caramel sauces.  With so much on top, three scoops were definitely necessary.  This sundae was a child’s delight – and ours too.  There were other flavours, toppings and sauces to choose from, but to find out what they are, you will just have to try yourselves – and I would, if I were you.

The Colony Grill Room is a relaxing, retro dining experience.  In my opinion, it is American comfort food for the British.