Spring Summer 2018 beauty: The looks we loved backstage 💋
As the GLAMOUR Beauty Team wind down after Fashion Month, we run down the spring summer beauty trends you'll be wearing in 2018. From crystals under the eyes (ala Anna Sui) to Rose Quartz hair (ala Alexander Wang) and hoovered hair at Chanel, we reveal the hair, makeup and nail trends we oohed and aahed over backstage. If you're not ready for SS18, make sure you check out the AW17 looks you’ll be wearing THIS season.
Instagram/ sammcknight1Chanel
It was an accessorised look from Sam McKnight at Chanel - a perspex pony, to be exact. The hair supremo used a hoover to create the perfect ponytail and we are LIVING for this. It was Chanel's version of the amazon explorer.
InDigitalChanel
Not that this explorer has to lose her glamour - she still has time for a glossy red lip, plenty of blush (note the draping) and a washed, turquoise eye. Wherever these girls are going, we want to be.
Getty ImagesEtro
Glossy lids are still a thing and we couldn't be happier. "Inspired by India, we wanted the girls to have a luminous glow with soft, sweaty lids," says makeup artist Mark Carrasquillo.
Getty ImagesPhilosophy
A beauty look based on the duality of being grown up yet youthful and fresh. "The trick to the perfect, non-gloopy red lip is to use a lipstick with a clear gloss on top, then you can add just the right amount of gloss," says YSL Beauty Director Tom Pecheux.
Getty ImagesMissoni
"Celebrating 20 years of colour". We love this pretty, pastel-winged liner.
Getty ImagesVersace
"Donatella wants the girls to look VERSACE," says makeup artist Pat McGrath who created this gorgeous bronze, smokey eye. Hair genius, Guido complimented Pat's makeup and clipped two Versace barrette clips at brow level into each girl's hair.
Rex FeaturesChristopher Kane
The new NARS x Christopher Kane collaboration launched after the show, but not before the products were used backstage. Lucia Pica utilised different pigments from the Hardwired Eyeshadow Palette to wash over eyes and cheekbones, creating a sweaty but angelic iridescence. Holographic Nude Lipstick (TDF!!!) was pressed into the lips for a suble but light-catching effect.
Rex FeaturesChristopher Kane
Guido Palau made beautiful, ‘mistake heavy’ hair with Redken’s Control Addict 28, deconstructing the perfect pony with fingers to give a lived in, gritty take on the traditional style.
Getty ImagesRoksanda
It was all about supernatural skin from Miranda Joyce at Roksanda - clean, expensive, polished. If just concealer was not enough, MAC’s Face & Body was used to give a light but more thorough coverage. Very thin layers of MAC’s mixing medium were then applied on the cheekbones and ball of the eye for a fresh, glossy glow. MAC’s Lip Pencil in Beet was then pushed into the lips, creating a stain that looked as if the models had been eating blackberries. Rich, but still youthful.
Molly Goddard
It was a fresh, relaxed take on the 90's perm from UK's Creative Director of John Frieda, Luke Hersheson. 'It's big, curly hair, but the additional of the black hairband - pulling the curls back - creates a sporty edge," said Luke. Texture was built on wet hair with John Frieda's Frizz Ease Extra Strength 6 Effects Serum, and following hair that was curled to the roots, finished with John Frieda's Frizz Ease 100% Shine Glossing Mist for a luxurious polish.
Getty ImagesErdem
If HRH Queen Elizabeth II went to the cotton club in the 1940’s, what would she look like? That was the challenge for Val Garland & Anthony Turner backstage at Erdem. Val approached it as a perverse propriety - perfect skin (NARS’s Natural Radiant Longer Foundation - out November!) but with a strong liner. A classic winged eye, using NARS’ Eye Paint in Black Valley with an angled brush, was given a graphic, linear update that began in the middle of the eye and lacked the traditional flick.
Rex FeaturesErdem
Anthony’s hair felt slight more prim. Initially loaded with L’Oreal Profesionnel’s Full Volume Extra Mousse for a thicker, rich feeling, it was separated into sections; a triangled fringe was rolled, low pony’s were spiralled and sides were pressed down. It was the perfect compliment to Erdem’s beautiful show.
Getty ImagesEmilia Wickstead
The task was counteracting the traditional femininity that runs through Emilia Wickstead’s gorgeous clothes. Caroline Hiron’s was giving Zelen’s facials to all the models pre-makeup, really taking the time to work into the skin and stimulate a natural luminosity. Florrie White approached the makeup as ‘gender fluid’ - natural skin from Caroline, a brushed up, filled brow and blotted lip. CoverFX’s Enhance Drops were dabbed in the corner of the eyes for a youthful, ‘optimistic’ feeling.
Getty ImagesEmilia Wickstead
Luke Hersheson, John Frieda's UK Creative Director, pushed the idea of a genderless model with centred, floppy curtains that felt very public schoolboy, pulled the hair back into a low pony. Bolstered with John Frieda’s Root Booster for a lift in the front and finished with the Sheer Blonde Hairspray, it felt like the most relevant hair of the season.
Rex FeaturesJoseph
It was an athletic face that Lynsey Alexander championed at Joseph. The MUA mixed in Estee Lauder’s Double Wear Water Fresh Foundation with the Illuminating Primer for soft but buildable coverage and used Pure Colour Lipstick in Raw Sugar to contour and colour the cheeks and eyes. Mascara was pushed in just at the roots while brows were squared off for a androgynous, handsome appearance. The Re-Nutriv Balm, a favourite of Lynsey’s, was then liberally applied to the usual places - cheekbone, brow bone, bridge of nose & cupids bow - for a sweaty, luminous sheen.
Rex FeaturesJoseph
Duffy’s take on the hair was not dissimilar - strong and slightly masculine. A graphic side parting and low pony were uniform throughout, using just L’Oreal Elnett Hairspray for a firm, slightly glossy hold.
Getty ImagesTommy Hilfiger
Tommy Hilfiger’s Tommy Now Rock Circus was in full swing at Camden’s iconic Roundhouse and Eugene Souleiman, Wella Professionals Global Creative Director and GHD Fashion Week Ambassador, created individual rock inspired looks for each of the models.
“There was a real rock concert feel to the show this season and for me, I wanted to create a look that was dishevelled, raw and full of texture. Each look was individual, diverse and imperfect. I created an anti-cosmetic approach to the hair – a juxtaposition to the glamorous make up look to allow the girls personalities to come through.” Eugene Souleiman.
Eugene took a laid-back approach to getting the hair show-ready, using EIMI products and GHD tools. Each hair look heroed individuality and transported each model into the cool rock and roll Tommy world.
"The vibe is very cool. I wanted the hair to have a loose, nonchalant look that was very youthful. The hair needed to look unwashed, a couple of days old from dancing away at your favourite gig.”
Getty ImagesJulien MacDonald
Julien kept it very Julien, thankfully - a gorgeous smokey eye a la Wendy Rowe was put together using Maybelline’s Colour Shadow in Red Moon. It felt slightly feline, wrapping underneath the eye and blended into lashings of mascara and heavy liner. Clean skin, good highlight, nude lips and a brush up brow (every one of these a trend for SS18) let the eyes have their moment.
Getty ImagesJulien MacDonald
Adam Reed spoke about a return to the 90’s supermodel-esque straight hair while still loading it with texture and movement. First blow dried with GHD’s Hair Dryer and then using the Platinum Styler to straighten but also style the hair (twisting the tool to give the hair bounce), it did bring back the glamour days while shifting the look forward into what the hairstylist referred to as ‘millennial straight’.
Rex FeaturesJulian Macdonald
For the Julien Macdonald show it was all about the golden tan. The pros at St. Tropez transformed models into Amazonian Goddesses with an all-over golden, glossy tan. St. Tropez's Instant Tan Medium/Dark Body Lotion was applied to contour the limbs, and then Instant Tan Finishing Gloss was buffed in to key areas such as collarbones, shoulders and shins. The pièce de résistance: subtle sparkle on to exposed skin with any makeup shimmer. Less is so not more.
Getty ImagesVersus
Charlotte Tilbury referenced one of her favourite muses - Kate Moss (which incidentally was the lipstick shade used) - for the Versus show. A lived in, graphic cat eye offset glowing, gorgeous skin that came from her new Hollywood Contour & Highlight wands.
Getty ImagesVersus
Hair stylist Eugene Souleiman championed the individual girl, quickly enhancing the models natural hair for a sexy, textured, done-at-home feeling.
IndigitalTopshop
The reference was the same as last season (early 90s club kid) but that is a reference that Topshop was more or less founded on, so it works. Lynsey Alexander had the answer to the instant party eye, smudging Topshop lip liner in Perfectly Flawed, pressing in Chameleon Glow in Wax & Wayne then dabbing on Lip Kit Glitter in the corners of the eyes. Offset with a contrasting black lash and the brand's cult Glow Pots, it felt youthful, gritty and fun - the perfect night out.
IndigitalTopshop
A one-step product for a punchy green will be out at the end of the year too. Hair stylist Duffy brought the reference even further back, citing the 60s Soho scene that translated into a masculine side parting and tonged, wavy hair that was finished with L’Oreal’s Mythic Oil. Slightly sweaty, very sexy.
Rex FeaturesRoland Mouret
MAC’s Lipstick in Paramount (the reddish-brown colour you NEED next season) was the focus of Val Garland’s look for the Roland Mouret show. Combined with clean skin, a groomed brow and where needed, a slight liner, it felt polished but still young.
Getty ImagesRoland Mouret
Hairstylist Sam McKnight was another champion of individual beauty, working with his namesake products to produce hair that would suit the girls best. The highlight of the show was the designer launching his first fragrance. Notes of Neroli, bare rose and patchouli made it the most sensual of scents - fitting, as Roland wants it to illicit a reaction and ‘challenge sexuality’. The parfum of the season, hands down.
Rex FeaturesPreen
A puritanical vein ran throughout the show, which hair stylist Eugene Souleiman channeled with undone, sweaty hair that was side parted and organically sculptural. GHD Curve Soft Curl Tong’s were used to create texture and dimension, while EIMI’s Dry Me and GHD’s Air Hairdryer pressed the hair flat against the scalp. “It’s broken and unkept, but with a strictness,” said Souleiman.
Rex FeaturesPreen
It was an earthy, glossed eye from Val Garland that peaked out from underneath the hair, with fresh skin and a natural, MAC Lipglass lip. Anyone else getting major Handmaid's Tale vibes?
Rex FeaturesMatty Bovan
It was a psychedelic tribe that the Matty Bovan’s girls belonged to. Makeup artist Hung Vanngo used Marc Jacobs Beauty to create a heavy black eye with a colour that came from the model's individual looks for the show - cobalt blue, shamrock green or flame orange. The aim was to combine the beauty with the fashion and have a tougher, ‘almost apocalyptic’ feel.
Rex FeaturesMatty Bovan
Hair stylist Syd Hayes kept inline with that attitude by wrapping latex around fashioned dreadlocks while keeping the rest of hair textured and undone.
IndigitalMary Katrantzou
Hair stylist Duffy pushed for the hair - graphic, straightened and tucked under - being uniform for every girl. “I’m all for diversity, all for individuality, all for character, but fashion needs a statement right now and this is that,” he said backstage.
IndigitalMary Katrantzou
Glossy skin couldn't be more en vogue, which is why makeup artist Lynsey Alexander used MAC’s clear gloss & lip glass to cover the face, colour the eyes and enhance the lips at Mary Katrantzou. The result was a plastic, almost robotic finish that was both eerie and beautiful.
IndigitalJ.W. Anderson
The work of Mark Ryden inspired Anderson’s SS18 girls, which was interpreted as ‘pretty witchy’ - part naive, part occult. Hair stylist Anthony Turner gave the models a schoolgirl-esque, rough side parting using only his fingers for a natural, unaffected look and KMS’s Sea Salt Spray.
IndigitalJ.W. Anderson
Makeup artist Mark Carrasquillo also pushed the idea of a coven, using NARs Eyeliner Stylo on the bottom waterline while keeping the skin as natural as possible. Simple but chic.
Rex FeaturesAnya Hindmarch
Side-swept tucked-in chignon’s (a la Luke Hersheson, UK Creative Director at John Frieda) were framed with the designers headbands that felt like a new take on polished, grown-up hair. For a similar, slightly futuristic housewife look, smooth the hair back using John Frieda's Frizz Ease Extra Strenght 6 Effects Serum and add plenty of hairspray when twisting, pinning and clipping.
Rex FeaturesAnya Hindmarch
The glossy, robotic skin was seen here too; Val Garland opted away from blush & contour, using MAC’s Face & Body with a little Mixing Medium Shine for a mannequin-esque highlight. It was different shades of tan, namely Lip Pencil in Spice, that was ‘banana’d’ over the top of the eye. Plastic perfection.
Getty ImagesAlice Temperley
It was French Riviera with a 40’s moment at Alice Temperley, so Charlotte Tilbury really wanted to make it all about a healthy, glowing complexion. Prepped with magic cream and a light layer of Unisex Healthy Glow, a slight contour and lots of highlight (on the apple of the cheek too) from her new Hollywood Wands, the look was combined with a matte red lip for that needed pop of glamour.
Getty ImagesAlice Temperley
Antonio Calero used Moroccanoil’s Treatment to fully hydrate each model for a post-beach, mid-holiday look. Wrapped in a headpiece scarf or a textured braid, it felt effortless and very, very French.
IndigitalAlexander Wang
You heard it here first! Rose quartz hair is a thing for SS18 and we LOVE it!
IndigitalAlexander Wang
"Individual beauty is here to stay," says makeup artist Diane Kendall. How gorgeous is this beautifully, prepped skin?
Rex FeaturesAnna Sui
NYFW always sets the nail art game high! This sparkle is a suits-all-glitter, trust us!
Rex FeaturesAnna Sui
"Anna wanted free-spirited beauties and to evoke the feeling of summer," says makeup genius Pat McGrath. Grap your gloss it's all about glistening, nuanced eyes.
Getty ImagesHelmut Lang
A red lip is always a beauty do! This season it's all about the H-ombre, that's horizontal ombre. "It's not meant to look perfect, it's meant to look edgy," says makeup artist Inge Grognard.
IndigitalTom Ford
Like his clothes Tom Ford kept it chic with a metallic winged liner.
Rex FeaturesAnna Sui
Here's Bella Hadid getting her makeup applied backstage at Anna Sui. We loved this look.
Rex FeaturesAnna Sui
Sister Gigi also convincing us to add the glitz.
Rex FeaturesBadgley Mischka
This look is so elegant! Pale skin, bold, red lip and a perfect centre parting! We Love!
Rex FeaturesBadgley Mischka
Proving how to wear messy hair the pretty way! Embrace flyaways.
Getty ImagesCarolina Herrera
Inky black liner is taking over the catwalk and we couldn't be happier. Wraparound your sockets and finish with a wash of black on your waterline for a smouldering effect
IndigitalJason Wu
Introducing the Finger Print Liner. "Use an eyeshadow brush or your finger if you can- to mimic the shape a smudge would make," says makeup artist Yadim.
Jeremy Scott
Who doesn't love crystals under the eyes? And the hair was also on point. "We are customising each look to the girl," said hairstylist Eugene Souleiman for GHD.
While we're here, we need to talk about the nails! Nail artist Miss Pop used a neon polish and then dusted with glitter.
Jeremy Scott
Eugene Souleiman created lots of individual hairstyles at Jeremy Scott, from high ponytails to topknots and mussed-up waves like Stella Maxwell here.
IndigitalOscar de la Renta
Tom Pecheux created a modern take on the feline flick at Oscar de la Renta, with a flash of blue, turquoise, lilac, orange or pink at the outer corners.
Tory Burch
Manhattan beauties! Tory Burch girls were reminiscent of Gossip Girl's Blair and Serena. Guido Palau blow-dried hair sleek and straight, for a minimalistic look. For the beauty look, Diane Kendal created the perfect smoky eye.
IndigitalVictoria Beckham
"Smallest amount of makeup ever!," says Pat McGrath backstage at the show. "It's super groomed! Let your skin do the talking!" Highlighted cheekbones were created using the Victoria Beckham x Estee Lauder collection Morning Aura Illuminating Creme. And she finished with the Matte Lipstick in Victoria.
Rex FeaturesBrandon Maxwell
"A touch of glow," says makeup genius Tom Pecheux. Glow on- Highlighters at the ready, this summer is looking bright!
Sophia Webster
Pretty mermaid eyes are a do backstage at Sophia Webster. Get the look with Revlon colorstay Eye Palette In Seductive.
