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The Perfect Scoop, Revised and Updated: 200 Recipes for Ice Creams, Sorbets, Gelatos, Granitas, a...

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The Perfect Scoop: Ice Creams, Sorbets, Granitas, and Sweet Accompaniments Paperback – May 4, 2010

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Ripe seasonal fruits. Fragrant vanilla, toasted nuts, and spices. Heavy cream and bright liqueurs. Chocolate, chocolate, and more chocolate. Every luscious flavor imaginable is grist for the chill in The Perfect Scoop, pastry chef David Lebovitz’s gorgeous guide to the pleasures of homemade ice creams, sorbets, granitas, and more.

With an emphasis on intense and sophisticated flavors and a bountiful helping of the author’s expert techniques, this collection of frozen treats ranges from classic (Chocolate Sorbet) to comforting (Tin Roof Ice Cream), contemporary (Mojito Granita) to cutting edge (Pear-Pecorino Ice Cream), and features an arsenal of sauces, toppings, mix-ins, and accompaniments (such as Lemon Caramel Sauce, Peanut Brittle, and Profiteroles) capable of turning simple ice cream into perfect scoops of pure delight.

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256 pages
Language

English
Publisher

Ten Speed Press
Publication date

May 4, 2010
Dimensions

7.5 x 0.75 x 10.5 inches
ISBN-10

158008219X
ISBN-13

978-1580082198
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Editorial Reviews

Review

"The original ice cream tour de force."
—Cookbooker.com, paperback edition review, 6/2/10

"Here is the rare book in which the recipes live up to the delicious promise of their names . . . The collection of ice creams ranges from the sophisticated to the delightfully childish."
—New York Daily News

Amazon 2007 Top 10 Editor's Picks in Cooking, Food & Wine
"The Perfect Scoop digs right into what you need to know for successful ice creams, sherbets, gelatos, sorbets, frozen yogurts, and granitas."
—New York Times

"Having churned out ice cream at home and in professional kitchens for a quarter century, Lebovitz can guide even a beginner to a great frozen experience. . . . Truly the Good Humor man of home ice cream."
—San Francisco Chronicle

One of the best gift books of the year: "The scoop in the title is perfect, and so is everything else about this cookbook on homemade ice cream. It's informative, full of charm, and loaded with irresistible and impeccably tested recipes."
—Seattle Post-Intelligencer

"Everything you need to know about making anything remotely connected with ice cream . . . Lebovitz is an entertaining read . . . the recipe headnotes alone are worth the price of the book."
—Oregonian

"Packed with beautiful photos and great-sounding recipes."
—Omaha World-Herald

"If you are one of those people who‚ 'scream for ice cream,' then you will whoop for The Perfect Scoop. . . Ice cream aficionados should be delighted with The Perfect Scoop. It is delicious."
—Peter Franklin's Cookbook Nook, United Press Syndicate

"The author's 25 years of experience as a frozen-dessert maker are put to excellent use in this wittily written, detailed volume. . . . Great photos and plenty of practical advice combine to make this an appealing and useful resource for the dessert aficionado."
—Publishers Weekly

"If you love cold sweets but never dared own an ice-cream machine for fear you'd soon weigh 300 pounds, then consider this book; you may just find some happy compromises."
—Epicurious.com

"This is the only book you'll ever need to make stellar ice cream."
—Gale Gand, host of Food Network's Sweet Dreams

"Finally, someone has done real justice to my favorite food, ice cream. David's book is full of new ideas for cold delights and great takes on my favorite chocolate treats."
—John Scharffenberger, cofounder of Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker and author of Essence of Chocolate

"I screamed, you'll scream—we all scream for David's wonderful ice cream! I highly recommend this book for all ice cream junkies."
—Sherry Yard, pastry chef at Spago and author of The Secrets of Baking

"The Perfect Scoop is luscious and perfectly luxurious—even David's accompaniments and accessories ('mix-ins' and 'vessels' as he calls them) sparkle sweetly."
—Lisa Yockelson, author of Baking by Flavor and ChocolateChocolate

About the Author

DAVID LEBOVITZ has been a professional cook and baker for most of his life; he spent nearly thirteen years at Chez Panisse until he left the restaurant business in 1999 to write books. He moved to Paris in 2004 and turned davidlebovitz.com into a phenomenally popular blog. He is the author of six books, including The Perfect Scoop, Ready for Dessert, The Great Book of Chocolate, and a memoir called The Sweet Life in Paris, and he was named one of the Top Five Pastry Chefs in the Bay Area by the San Francisco Chronicle. David has also been featured inBon Appétit, Food & Wine, Cook’s Illustrated, the Los Angeles Times, the New York Times, Saveur, Travel + Leisure, and more.

Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.

BASICS

Whether you’re a novice or a highly experienced cook, you will find it’s easy to make the freshest, most unbelievably tasty ice creams, sorbets, sherbets, and granitas in your own kitchen. If you’ve never done it before, prepare to be wowed. Nothing beats the taste of freshly made ice cream spooned directly from the machine.

In this chapter you’ll find all the information you’ll need to do it. Starting with step-by-step instructions for making the perfect ice cream custard, I’ll take you through the process--including some pitfalls to avoid and steps to take in case you manage to fall into one of them. The best ingredients and the right equipment are crucial to making really perfect ice creams and sorbets. I’ll give you advice to help you make your choices, including information about the differences among various models of ice cream makers, if you don’t have one yet.

Making the Perfect Ice Cream Custard

Many of the ice cream recipes in this book are custard-based, or French-style ice creams. Others are Philadelphia-style, which refers to ice cream made simply by mixing milk or cream with sugar and other ingredients. French-style ice creams tend to be richer and smoother, due to the emulsifying properties of egg yolks. My fruit-based ice creams tend to be Philadelphia-style, since I prefer to let the flavor of the fruits come forward without all the richness. But in some cases I offer a flavor in both styles, so you can decide which you prefer.

If you’ve never made a French-style stovetop ice cream custard before, follow these step-by-step instructions to ensure success (in some recipes, the procedure may vary slightly). Although I make my custards in a saucepan over moderate heat, you may wish to cook your custard in a double boiler the first few times or use a flame tamer to diffuse the heat, until you get the hang of it. It will take longer to cook, but you’ll appreciate the extra time to watch and make sure it cooks to just the right consistency.

Before getting started, prepare an ice bath to expedite the chilling of the custard. Make one by putting some ice in a large bowl and then adding a cup or two of cold water so the ice cubes are barely floating. You can also partially fill an empty sink with ice and some water. Most custard-based ice cream recipes call for pouring the warm, just-cooked custard right into the cream, which helps stop the cooking and expedites cooling. Set the bowl of cream in the ice bath, put a strainer over the top and make sure to keep it nearby; after you’ve cooked the custard, you’ll need to pour it into the bowl right away.

Heat the milk or the liquid called for in the recipe with the sugar in a medium-sized saucepan on the stove. Always use nonreactive cookware, such as stainless steel or anodized aluminum.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the egg yolks.

The next step is to temper the yolks. Here’s where you need to be careful. Once the milk is hot and steamy, slowly and gradually pour the milk into the egg yolks (1), whisking constantly, which keeps the yolks moving and avoids the risk of cooking them into little eggy bits. I find it best to remove the saucepan from the heat and use a ladle to add the hot liquid while whisking. If you add the hot liquid too fast or don’t whisk the egg yolks briskly, they’ll cook and you’ll end up with bits of scrambled eggs.

Scrape the warmed egg yolks back into the saucepan. Then stir the custard over moderate heat, using a heatproof utensil with a flat edge. I like to use a silicone rubber spatula, although a straight-edged wooden spatula works well too. Cook, stirring nonstop, until the mixture thickens and coats the spatula. While cooking the custard, be sure to scrape the bottom of the saucepan while stirring. Don’t be timid; keep the custard mixture moving constantly while it’s cooking, and do not let the custard boil!

Custard Rescue

If your custard does boil or curdle, you can rescue it by blending it while it’s warm with an immersion or standing blender. Don’t fill a blender container more than half full with hot liquid since the steam will expand inside and can force off the lid. Ouch.

You’ll know your custard’s done when it begins to steam and you feel it just beginning to cook as you scrape the spatula across the bottom of the pan. You can test it by running your finger across the spatula coated with custard: It’s done when your finger leaves a definite trail that doesn’t flow back together (2). You can check for doneness with an instant-read thermometer too; it should read between 170°F (77°C) and 175°F (79°C) when the custard is done. Egg safety experts recommend cooking eggs to a minimum temperature of 160°F (71°C), but don’t let them get above 185°F (85°C) or you’ll have scrambled eggs.

It’s ready! Without delay, take the custard off the heat and immediately pour the hot mixture through the strainer into the chilled bowl of cream in its ice bath, and stir (3). This will lower the temperature of the custard right away to stop the cooking (4). Stir frequently to help the custard cool down. Once it’s cool, refrigerate the custard with the lid slightly ajar. It should be very cold before churning it. I recommend chilling most mixtures for at least 8 hours or overnight.

Chill the machine in advance. If you’re using an ice cream maker that requires prefreezing, make sure the canister spends the required amount of time in the freezer--whatever’s recommended by the manufacturer. Although it may feel frozen to the touch before the recommended time, take it from me: If you use the machine prematurely you’ll end up watching the mixture go round and round without freezing--a big disappointment. Don’t cheat! Most machines require 24 hours of prefreezing.

Some machines work best if you switch them on and get the dasher (the turning blade) moving before pouring in your mixture, since on some models the custard will begin freezing to the sides immediately when you pour it in, which can prevent the dasher from turning.

Although some experts say that most ice cream benefits from being allowed to “ripen” in the freezer for a few hours before serving, they can wait patiently for their rock-hard ice cream to ripen; I’m happy to enjoy the soft, freshly frozen stuff right from the machine as well. If your ice cream has been in the freezer for a long time, it will most likely benefit from being taken out 5 to 10 minutes prior to serving to allow it to soften to the best texture.

Keep It Clean and Play It Safe

Ice cream is a dairy product, so it’s important to keep things as clean and hygienic as possible. Make sure all equipment is sparkling clean. Wash your hands after handling raw eggs, and clean the washable parts of your ice cream maker in very hot water (or as indicated by the manufacturer) after each use. Chill custards with eggs and dairy products promptly, and store them in the refrigerator.

All of the ice cream recipes in this book that require egg yolks are cooked as custards on the stovetop. If you have concerns about egg safety, use an instant-read thermometer to check the temperature. Most harmful bacteria don’t survive at temperatures higher than 160°F (71°C). Pasteurized eggs in their shells are available in some areas and can be used if you wish.

INGREDIENTS

Alcohol

Alcohol does two things in ice cream: it prevents ice creams and sorbets from freezing too hard (alcohol doesn’t freeze), and it provides flavor. In some recipes you can omit it if you’ll be serving kids or anyone who is avoiding alcohol. In other cases it’s a vital flavor component, as in the Prune-Armagnac Ice Cream (page 78).

I frequently use kirsch, a distillation of cherries, to heighten the flavors of many fruit- or berry-based frozen desserts without interfering with the fresh fruit flavors. A few drops can transform a ho-hum fruit purée into something vibrant.

When buying liquor for cooking, my rule is to get a brand that you wouldn’t mind drinking on its own, but you don’t need to buy the most expensive bottle.

How Can I Make Softer Ice Cream and Sorbets?

Adding a bit of alcohol will give your ice creams and sorbets a better texture, since alcohol doesn’t freeze. For fruit-based recipes, spirits like kirsch, vodka, gin, and eau-de-vie will enhance the flavor and produce a softer texture by preventing ice crystals from forming. Use caution, though: If you add too much, the mixture might not freeze at all, and you’ll be left with a runny mess. In general, you can add up to 3 tablespoons (45 ml) of 40 percent (80 proof) liquor, such as rum or whiskey, to 1 quart (1 liter) of custard or sorbet mixture without any problems. I do push the limits with my boozy Eggnog Ice Cream (page 58).

Berries

Fresh berries are seasonal and should be used only when they’re at their peak. I’ve never tasted a “fresh” berry that had been flown around the world that wasn’t flavorless or bitter, so I never use them. I do use frozen berries, which can be quite tasty if you find a good brand, and they’re generally less expensive than fresh berries. If buying frozen, choose berries that are unsweetened and individually quick frozen (IQF), rather than the sweetened ones packed like blocks of ice. When measuring frozen berries for recipes, be sure to measure them while they’re frozen, since as they defrost they decrease substantially in volume.

Fresh berries should be plump and juicy when you buy them. Strawberries should be very fragrant and uniformly red, with no green “shoulders” or dark bruises. Peek under berry baskets before buying to see if there’s dampness, which often indicates unseen spoilage.

I don’t wash blackberries and raspberries, since they’re fragile and will lose their delicacy, but fresh strawberries should always be rinsed and drained well before they’re hulled and sliced to remove any grit. Fresh blueberries and cherries should be rinsed and drained as well.

Butter

For the recipes in this book that call for butter, use either unsalted or salted butter as noted.

Chocolate

Bittersweet and Semisweet Chocolate: Unlike the old days, new brands of chocolate are being introduced all the time, and deciding which one is best to use can be a bit confusing.

Bittersweet and semisweet are interchangeable terms, and chocolates labeled as such must contain a minimum of 35 percent cocoa solids. But many premium brands nowadays have a much higher percentage so I advise you to taste as many chocolates as you can (a delicious task) to find brands you like in your price range. In a couple of recipes, I advise using chocolate with a certain percentage of cocoa solids, which you’ll find listed on the packaging.

Unsweetened chocolate, often called bitter chocolate (not bittersweet) contains no sugar.

Buying chocolate in bulk is more economical than purchasing little bars, and dark chocolate will keep perfectly well in a cool, dark place (not the refrigerator) for several years. See Resources (page 237) for some recommended brands.

Chocolate Chips: Most chocolate chips are formulated with less cocoa butter so they’ll retain their shape when heated. I use them in baked goods like meringues and cookies (and for snacking), but not for melting. Most supermarket chocolate chips are fine to use, although I usually treat myself to premium brands.

Cocoa Nibs: These crunchy bits of roasted cocoa beans are the essence of pure chocolate without any added sugar. They remain delightfully crisp even when folded into ice cream. Cocoa nibs are available at specialty shops and well-stocked supermarkets. See Resources (page 237) for online purchasing.

Cocoa Powder: All recipes that call for cocoa powder use unsweetened cocoa powder. Do not use cocoa drink mixes or products labeled “powdered chocolate,” which contain sugar and other ingredients.

In most cases I specify Dutch-process cocoa powder, which has been acid-neutralized and is darker in color than natural cocoa powder. I find it more flavorful and prefer it for my ice creams and sorbets. If your cocoa powder has been “Dutched,” it should say so somewhere on the packaging, or it will list an alkalizing agent in the ingredient list. All European brands of cocoa powder are likely to be Dutch-processed.

Milk Chocolate: Milk chocolate is chocolate that’s been mellowed by the addition of milk. Although ordinary brands must contain a minimum of 10 percent cocoa solids (in the U.S.), you should search out a premium brand with at least 30 percent cocoa solids and avoid using mass-marketed candy bars. They’re not intended for cooking, as they contain the minimum amount of cocoa solids and are often quite sweet. Milk chocolate will keep for about one year if stored in a cool, dark place.

White Chocolate: Real white chocolate is made with pure cocoa butter, and that should be the only fat listed on the label. Cocoa butter is ivory colored, not truly white, so anything that is pure white is not likely to be real white chocolate. Quality is very important when selecting white chocolate, and buying a premium brand is always worth it. White chocolate will keep for about one year if stored in a cool, dark place.

Chopping Chocolate

The most effective tool for chopping chocolate is a long, serrated bread knife. You’ll find a big, thick block easier to tackle if you start to chop at one corner. As you cut a wider swath, turn the block and start chopping at another corner. If a recipe calls for finely chopped chocolate, the pieces should be no larger than 1/4 inch (1 cm). Coarsely chopped chocolate means pieces that are about 3/4 inch (2 cm).

Coconut and Coconut Milk

I prefer to use unsweetened dried coconut, rather than the sweetened flakes from the supermarket, so I can control the sweetness in the final product. Dried unsweetened coconut is available in natural and specialty food stores.

If you can’t find unsweetened coconut, soak sweetened coconut in hot water. Rinse it afterward, then wring it firmly with your hands and let it dry before using.

Coconut milk is the extracted liquid from coconut meat. Very good canned brands are available in Asian and ethnic markets, as well as in well-stocked supermarkets. The best brand is from Thailand, labeled Chaokoh. (Beware of similar-sounding brand names.) Do not substitute heavily sweetened Coco López or products labeled “cream of coconut.”

Coffee

Much of the success of any coffee-based ice cream or granita depends upon the quality and strength of the coffee or espresso you use. The recipes in this book call for strong, freshly brewed coffee or espresso. If you must use instant coffee or espresso powder, be sure to use a very good brand. The substitution ratio for these recipes is 1 rounded teaspoon of top-quality instant coffee or espresso powder to 1/4 cup (60 ml) of hot water.

Product details

Publisher ‏ : ‎ Ten Speed Press (May 4, 2010)
Language ‏ : ‎ English
Paperback ‏ : ‎ 256 pages
ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 158008219X
ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1580082198
Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 1.9 pounds
Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 7.5 x 0.75 x 10.5 inches

Best Sellers Rank: #704,247 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- #163 in Confectionary Desserts
- #230 in Cheese & Dairy Cooking
- #241 in Frozen Dessert Recipes

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David Lebovitz

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Author of The Perfect Scoop, the complete guide to making the best ice cream and frozen desserts at home, Ready for Dessert, a compilation of baking favorites, from an extra-moist Fresh Ginger Cake, to crunchy Double-Chocolate Biscotti, My Paris Kitchen, stories and recipes from the glorious foods markets and shops in Paris, and Drinking French, recipes and stories inspired by the iconic café drinks, apéritifs, and cocktails of France.

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Kornchik

The Perfect Scoop is the perfect book

Reviewed in the United States on September 10, 2013

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This past spring/summer I got on a crazy canning kick--jams, peaches, sauces, etc. We live near one of the best ice cream shops in Los Angeles (don't worry, I'm getting to the point) where they serve "homemade" ice cream like "Guinness" ice cream, salted caramel, Rose Petal, lavender honey--ice creams made with real mint, rose petals, etc. So, back to being on a homemade everything kick, I decided it would be fun to get an ice cream maker for our anniversary so we could make homemade ice cream like our favorite local shop (and seriously, save $$ considering how much we spent there this summer). My first attempt was Lavender Honey Vanilla Bean ice cream (yes, I dove right in). Unfortunately, while the recipe had great ingredients, it didn't give me proper directions on making a custard, so, you guessed it, my custard curdled (which i didn't realize) and my ice cream turned out lumpy. It tasted good but the texture was so weird and unfortunately I just couldn't get past the weird texture to truly enjoy the flavor.

Then I came across David's blog and his Chocolate Mint Ice Cream recipe which then led me to his book, The Perfect Scoop, and I felt like I hit gold. I was in heaven leafing through the book with my daughter drooling next to me over the beautiful photos. So far, every recipe I've tried has turned out fabulously. He goes into detail about the proper tools, equipment and step-by-step methods (including how to prevent curdled custard!!). I've made Chocolate Mint (his book only has Mint, but all you need to do is add the chocolate during the churning process) and Holy Cow!!! the best mint ice cream I've ever tasted and I'm a true mint chip connoisseur! Next came Lavender Honey (and I added Vanilla Bean just because) and oh my yumm-o! Pure decadence. Following was salted caramel. OK, this recipe isn't in his book, it's on his blog, but again, he gives step-by-steps to making caramel (which is in the book) and it's so darn easy and I nearly wanted to faint after eating the ice cream. He even has a Guinness recipe (you know what's next for me!).

The book covers various inspirations surrounding the colder desserts: ice creams, sorbets and granitas. From the simplest chocolate or vanilla ice cream (with and without custard base) to complex, more labor-intensive combinations. He covers a variety of homemade topping/sauces/accompaniments, mix-ins, and methods of presentations (ex: ice cream cookies, truffles, sugar cups, etc.)--assuming you can keep yourself from eating them before you add the ice cream. I really enjoyed his little anecdotes before each recipe, usually detailing where the recipe came from or how it was inspired. He's a quippy writer and I didn't find any fluff, just straight forward, interesting and educational content.

I can't wait to try every single one of the ice creams and although I'm not a huge sorbet or granites lover, the flavors he puts together will tempt me for something a bit healthier. This is a great book and you will definitely not be disappointed with the results. Seriously, you will impress your guests with these homemade ice desserts. While making ice cream isn't as easy as dumping ingredients into a machine (unless you have $1000) David's directions are so clear and concise that it feels almost effortless. Oh, and check out his blog for even more inspiration. And I promise, he's not paying me to write this, he doesn't need to.

24 people found this helpful

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John Sykes

Everyone should have this Ice Cream Bible

Reviewed in the United States on March 24, 2020

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Like many of you, I have bought/received cookbooks enough to choke a bookshelf over the years. I usually glance through them, think "Oh I should make that sometime." Then I doom them to their untouched, book purgatory future on my shelf for all eternity.

Not with this baby.

I bought this book on a whim. I had received the Cuisnart compressor ice cream machine (amazing machine by the way) for Christmas and thought "Why not. Maybe I'll try to make some ice cream this summer when the kids are out of school."

From the first moment I was drawn to the crisp, beautiful photos. I loved the easiness of the directions-- the author really makes sure that you can do this. He will say things like "If you accidentally get some cooked eggs in your base, run it through a fine mesh strainer and you will be good as new." Things that an ice cream newbie would do and then freak out, he already anticipates and gives a solution for. This is literally the ice cream Bible of recipe books. I have found myself reaching for this baby again and again and again (while the other ice cream books sit there in simmering, resentful silence, with only their bitter dust for company).

I love that the end of the book has recipes to use up egg whites (homemade waffle cones anyone??? Also excellent) when you are using the yolks for the ice cream base. Just a fantastic, absolutely pro level book that will have you saying "Why didn't I ever think to make ice cream in this flavor?" I have not only loved using this book, but I have learned "how ice cream works," ratios, etc, and I have been able to make my own ice cream flavors (avocado ice cream, anyone? Protein shake ice cream for workouts?), astounded at how amazing and professional they tasted and looked.

My most recent attempt was fresh mint ice cream (store was all out, I had rampaging mint in the flower beds-- why not?) The photos speak for themselves. Perfect, creamy, light, absolutely out of this world amazing. The green color is all natural from the mint leaves (he mentions this in the book). You will come back to this book over and over. And if you decide to purchase or gift an ice cream machine, this little guy should be your plus one. He will captivate everyone at the party. Thank you David Lebovitz! :)

90 people found this helpful

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B&B

Great book!!!!

Reviewed in Canada on January 25, 2024

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Wonderful recipes with tips includes icecream, gelato, sorbet . Can’t wait to start making sorbet

Cliente Amazon

Muito bom

Reviewed in Brazil on July 9, 2023

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Muito completo, com diversas receitas e técnicas diferentes

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Amazon Kunde

Great

Reviewed in Germany on December 28, 2023

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Lovely ice cream recipes!

Lucy L.

Delicious - instant professional ice cream connoisseur

Reviewed in the United Kingdom on December 5, 2023

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I’ve had this book (and the ice cream maker) for a total of 10 days which I bought on a whim during Black Friday - I love ice cream but have never made it before. So far I have made:

Chocolate ice cream (so good I made it twice)
Green tea ice cream
Roasted banana
Toasted coconut
Raspberry sherbet
Raspberry and champagne sorbet
Pineapple and champagne sorbet
Blackberry sorbet
Chewy chocolate brownies

I’m obsessed! All of them have come out to be beautiful. The chocolate is the family favourite despite only 1 of 4 liking chocolate ice cream. All of them require a little cooking or blending and a chill in the fridge before putting in the ice cream maker but were easy to do (the pictures helped a lot).

We don’t have enough freezer space or I would have made more already. I don’t think you need any other ice cream recipe book than this one as it has such a large variety to choose from - vanilla to avocado ice cream.

Freddy

El mejor libro de helados en el mercado

Reviewed in Spain on January 6, 2023

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Fantástico. Tiene decenas de recetas que se pueden preparar con cualquier tipo de heladera, pero aún más importante, proporciona consejos, trucos y soluciones para los problemas asociados a cada tipo de preparación.

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The Perfect Scoop: Ice Creams, Sorbets, Granitas, and Sweet Accompaniments Paperback – May 4, 2010

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Buy new:

$21.00

FREE delivery: April 30 - May 2

Ships from: Sandhills Sales

Sold by: Sandhills Sales

Buy used:

$8.87