Object/Subject Review: Niteye MSA20 [In Progress]

Bigmac_79

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In Progress

Previously known as JETBeam, Niteye announced their new brand name earlier this year after a disagreement with their distributor. Since that time, Niteye has continued to push forward with high-quality lights of all sizes. One of their most recent offerings is the MS series, controlled by a button and a rotating tail. Of the MS series, this review will cover the MSA20, powered by two AA batteries.



Thanks to Niteye for providing the MSA20 for review.

I'll be reviewing the MSA20 in two sections: first, I'll discuss the light objectively (the facts about the light itself), then I'll discuss the light subjectively (my impressions about the light's performance when used for specific applications). If you have any other specific applications you'd like the light tested for, let me know and I'll see what I can do.

3-Minute Overview

Below is a video "quick review" you can watch in just a few minutes, if you're not up for reading the full review right now:


This video is available in 720p HD, but defaults to a lower quality. To select the playback quality click the settings button (looks like a gear) after you've started the video.


Objective

Manufacturer's Specifications

Price: $70




Packaging




The MSA20 comes packaged in a brown cardboard box with the specs printed on the side. Inside the light rests in a foam cutout, with the documentation underneath.

Construction



The MS series is made from aluminum, coated with black hard anodizing to protect from scratches and chips. The MSA20 uses two AA sized batteries.


Let's take a closer look, starting from the front.



The MS series have a stainless steel bezel ring that protects the head in case of an impact. The MSC10 uses a CREE XM-L emitter in an orange-peel textured reflector. The head of the light has four grooves cut into it that help to dissipate heat, by increasing the surface area.



One one side of the body is the Niteye logo and web address, and on the other side is the series and model name. The majority of the body is covered by a diamond-knurling pattern.




The clip attaches to a smooth groove at the start of the body. The clip has small "ears" that bend out away from the light slightly, to help get the clip on and off without damaging the anodizing.



The light is controlled by a button and control ring at the tail. The control ring has several notches cut into it to make it easier to grip. For more information on how the light is operated, see the User Interface section.



The tail of the light features a light behind the switch that serves as a battery indicator.

Now, it's time to take the light apart!



Without the use of tools, the MSC10 comes apart into three pieces: the head, body, and tail.



Inside the head, this contact point makes electrical connection with the positive terminal of the battery. The MSC10 has orange-red o-rings at the connection points to maintain water resistance. The threads between the head and body are non-anodized, so the light will be able to turn on even if it's a little loose. The threads between the body and tail are anodized, so the light will not turn on if they are a little loose, and these threads should hold up to wear a little better. In the tail, a spring makes electrical connection with the negative terminal of the battery, and also helps to reduce the chance of damaging the battery in the case of an impact.

Dimensions




Accessories

The accessories included with my review sample of the MSA20 are the clip and spare o-rings.


User Interface

The MS series are controlled by the control ring and the electronic button, both on the tail of the light.

The control ring has four positions: Strobe, Off/Voltage Check, Select, and High. The electronic button can be pressed quickly or held down.

Strobe: The light strobes. A quick press to the button will turn the light on and off, staying in Strobe mode.

Off/Voltage Check: When you first turn the ring to this position, the emitter will be on very dim for about 3 seconds, and the light behind the button will come on to indicate the battery level. If the voltage is low, the light will be red, otherwise the light will be green. After about three seconds, the main emitter and the battery indicator will both turn off. You can turn it off sooner by pressing the button. Pressing the button again will not turn the light back on, it will remain off until the ring is moved to another position.

Select: In this position, you can select any brightness you want from Min to Max. When you first turn to this position, it will remember whatever brightness you selected last. To select a new brightness, hold down on the button, and the light will gradually ramp up or down. When you release the button, the light will stay at that brightness. When you reach the Min or the Max, the ramping will stop. To ramp the other direction, release the button and begin holding it again. A quick press to the button will turn the light on and off, remembering the brightness you selected.

High: This position will always give maximum brightness, a slightly higher brightness than the max available on the Select mode. A quick press to the button will turn the light on and off.

When using Strobe, Select, or Max you may turn the light on and off using the button and stay in the same mode. If you turn the light off using the button and move the ring to another position, the light will not stay off, but rather turn on in the appropriate mode. For example, if you turn the ring to the High position, then press the button, the light will be off. When you turn the ring to the Select position, the light will immediately turn on to the last brightness you selected, without you having to press the button.



Action Shots

You can click on any of these shots to see them full size.

Light in Hand



White Wall (
Selectable Min, Selectable Max, High)
ISO 100, f/3.3, 1/20"


BeamSlice


MugShot


Indoor Shots (Selectable Min, Selectable Max, High)
ISO 100, f/3.3, 1"


Outdoor Shots (Selectable Min, Selectable Max, High)
ISO 100, f/3.3, 2.5"


Long Range (High)
ISO 100, f/3.3, 5"



Performance

Submersion: I submersed the MSA20 in about a foot of water for an hour, turning the light on and off using the control ring and button during that time, and the light shows no sign of water entering or damaging the light.

Heat:
After running the MSA20 on it's highest output for 20 minutes, the light was hot but not too hot to hold.

PWM:
The MSA20 uses pulse-width modulation to control the output of the Select mode. The PWM is more pronounced on the lower brightnesses, and less noticeable on the higher brightnesses. I cannot detect any PWM on the High setting of the control ring.

Drop: I dropped the MSA20 from a height of about 1 meter onto various surfaces including grass, packed dirt, carpet, and wood. The light shows no cosmetic damage and still functions normally.

Reverse Polarity Protection:
I can find no claims or indication of reverse polarity protection for the MSC10, so I suggest being sure to always insert the battery in the correct direction.

Over-Discharge Protection:
As the battery voltage gets low, if you're using Select or High the light will begin to flicker and flash as it can no longer sustain the output. If you choose, you can Select a lower brightness and the light will stop flickering. As the battery drains more, the tail button will glow red, indicating that you should change batteries soon. If you are using lithium ion batteries, it would be healthy to change the batteries before this point.

Spectral Analysis


All light that we see as white is actually made up of several different colors put together. The relative intensities of the different colors in the mix are what determine the tint of the white we see. For example, cool white LED's have a lot of blue, and warm white LED's have more red or yellow. This measurement was done on a home made spectrometer. The plot below the picture is corrected for the spectral sensitivity of the human eye. Note: the peak in the 900nm region doesn't really exist, it's a piece of the second-order spectrum that's showing up here because of the high intensity of the light source.

Output and Runtime


ANSI FL-1 runtime ratings are the time it takes for a light to fall to 10% of it's original output (counting from 30 seconds after turning the light on).

The vertical axis of the graphs below represents a relative brightness measurement using a home made light box. The horizontal axis is time in hours:minutes:seconds. Runtimes are stated in hours:minutes:seconds. These graphs may be truncated to show detail.

Mode Comparison


This graph has been truncated to show detail


This graph has been truncated to show detail



Throwing Distance

ANSI FL-1 standard for stating a light's throwing distance is the distance at which the peak beam intensity (usually at the center of the beam) is 0.25 lux. I calculate throwing distance and candela (lux at 1 meter) by measuring peak beam intensity at five different distances and using the formula lux*distance^2=constant.

Peak Beam Intensity: 2433 cd
Throw Distance: 99 m

Subjective Review

Quick break down:

+

-

Coming soon...

Long Term Impressions

I'll fill this part in after carrying the light for a while. If nothing get's added here, either I find nothing else worth noting about the light, or I end up not using it often.
 
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